Antique Brooch with Hair & Black Glass Set in Gold, c. 1825

Throughout history, death has preoccupied people and prompted them to ask existential questions. In earlier centuries, it shaped people’s consciousness in a much more immediate way, as dying and death were far more present in everyday life than they are today. A wide variety of rituals and customs—many of which seem astonishing to us today—helped give form to the inevitable and make the loss of a loved one somewhat more bearable. Among these customs were pieces of jewellery intended to keep the memory of the departed alive. One such piece is this brooch from the 1820s. The oblong oval piece of jewellery is crafted from 8-karat rose gold. At its center are several artfully woven strands of hair, which, protected by a glass plate, have survived the vicissitudes of history. A frame of faceted black glass surrounds the small panel and underscores the piece of jewellery’s significance as a symbol of mourning. In her publication *Schmuck des Biedermeier* (Munich, 1983), on p. 208, Brigitte Marquardt depicts several pieces of jewellery from 19th-century commemorative culture—some of which are crafted from human hair—and explains their significance. The crafting of hair into pieces of jewellery is based on the notion that hair is a part of the whole person, rendered, as it were, immortal by its exceptional durability. In popular belief, hair has also been regarded as the seat of vitality. Pieces of jewellery made from human hair did not serve exclusively as a symbol of mourning. Marquardt also points to pieces that daughters gave to their mothers upon marriage. In this way, a part of the child who had left home could, in the truest sense of the word, remain with the loving mother and preserve the memory of her daughter after she had established her own household. This beautiful piece, which is still very good to wear despite its sentimental significance, is in very good condition and came to us from the south of England.

Schätzpreis:498€

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