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Document - INCONNU - V.B.D

Document - INCONNU - V.B.D

This document is a register page of technical data and a sample from a textile manufacturer (likely from the Lyon region or the North of France) dating from the early 20th century. The fabric sample (Left page) Foundation: The fabric has a very dark base, black or dark gray. Motifs: It is a delicate floral design with winding branches. Colors: One notices bright blue flowers (turquoise), touches of reddish-orange, and gold or silver details. Type: This is a typical example of the shaped silk work, where the motifs are directly woven into the fabric thanks to complex looms (such as the Jacquard loom). The technical sheet number 8102 (Right page) This page serves as a precise “recipe” for making the fabric and calculating its cost price. The composition: The top table compares the percentages and weights in grams of natural silk and artificial silk (a novelty of the time, often called rayon). Manufacturing steps: The calculations measure the fabric at three key moments: Before cutting. After cutting. After dyeing (when the fabric is given its final color). Measurements: The handwritten texts indicate precise fabric bolt widths (such as 103 cm or 88/90 cm). Manufacturing costs: At the bottom right, the price column details the weaving costs, the creation of punched cards (Lacing and Punching for the Jacquard loom). The total cost of the design is written at the very bottom (1,174.55 francs of the period). This label provides a major historical confirmation: your document indeed comes from the great Lyon silk houses. The sticker affixed to the notebook indicates that it was produced by Imprimerie M. Trouart, located at 17 rue Sainte-Catherine in Lyon, just a stone’s throw from the famous Place des Terreaux and the slopes of the Croix-Rousse, the historic heart of Lyon's silk weavers (the Canuts). The initials of the manufacturer “V. B. D.”: This is the signature of the Lyon silk house that used this book. These letters most probably correspond to the initials of the founding partners of the workshop (for example Vachon, Billion, Dumas or names similar to those of the era). Authenticity of the binding: The black percaline cover (sturdy cloth) with its leather or faux-leather look black spine is typical of factory account registers of the 1920s. It remains very sound. The whole is a bit loose, as the binding cords are broken. Nevertheless, this set is magnificent and the silks have kept their luster. I counted 96 samples...

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