Magnificent Victorian Garnet Cabochon and Pearl Bangle, c. 1865

In 19th century Central Europe, garnet jewellery was usually synonymous with shining stars and flowers made of countless small garnets from Bohemia. However, there is also a second, completely different garnet fashion that originated in Great Britain in the middle of the 19th century and spread to the rest of Europe in the course of the 19th century. Red garnets from India, known as almandines, were used here. These stones are found in much larger crystals and in Victorian England were often cut into large, shiny cabochons. Set in yellow gold, the shine of these stones is reminiscent of dark wine: deep red from the front, cherry-colored light reflections glide over the cabochon with every movement. This type of garnet jewelry was considered particularly romantic: "it holds to the owner the passionate love of all those whose love may be desired", according to George Bratley: The Power of Gems & Charms, London 1906, p. 120, see here. This bracelet is a fine example of this fashion. It sets four garnet cabochons in gold and accompanies them with shimmering pearls that appear to hold the garnets on the bracelet like knotted ribbons. The surfaces of the gold are smooth and slightly matt, in keeping with the taste of the 1860s. We discovered the bangle in London. It has been preserved in its probably original antique case by a London jeweller. Other beautiful pieces of jewelry with large almandine cabochons can be found, for example, in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 122, p. 124, p. 131, p. 132 ff.

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