Precious "Retro Style" Brooch with Untreated Ruby from Burma & Pearls

In the late 1930s, the major Parisian jewellery houses in particular developed a new variation of Art Deco, which is now referred to as “Retro Style.” It made its international debut at the Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la Vie Moderne in Paris in 1937. While the strictly geometric aesthetic of classic Art Deco—dominated by platinum and diamonds—was gradually coming to an end, warm gold tones, generous volumes, and sculpturally modeled forms now took center stage. Characteristic features include softly curved lines, scrollwork, bow and drapery motifs, and a distinctly sculptural approach to jewellery. This new style soon spread throughout the Western world: Film stars such as Marlene Dietrich, with her famous ruby bracelet (see here), contributed significantly to its popularity. The development of retro jewellery was influenced by the political and economic circumstances of the time. Due to its strategic importance to the defense industry, platinum was only available in limited quantities for jewellery production. Goldsmiths therefore increasingly turned to yellow and rose gold. Coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, citrine, topaz, and rubies added vibrant accents and gave the designs their unmistakable, warm radiance. This brooch, dating from around 1940, is an outstanding example of this style. The rectangular design, composed of large gold panels, evokes the folds of heavy, precious fabric and, with its elegant draping, is a prime example of the retro style. At the center of the composition, an untreated Burmese ruby glows with an intense red hue. Radiating from it in a cross-shaped pattern are white gold bands set with sparkling diamonds and eight shimmering pearls. According to the hallmark, the brooch was crafted in Vienna, which at that time produced the highest-quality jewellery designs in the German-speaking world. It was from there that this elegant brooch found its way to us. It is accompanied by an independent appraisal confirming the quality of the materials used.

Schätzpreis:€7,190

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