Rare Pearl Necklace With Golden Topazes in Cannetille, c. 1825 & Later

Four large elements of shimmering gold filigree form this exquisite necklace, elegantly connected by ten rows of lustrous pearls. Radiant, natural topazes are set within the finely spun gold. They glow warmly, making the golden forms appear like rare blossoms from distant lands. The necklace has reached us in its case, which was specially made for this piece. Inside the lid, we read in golden lettering on violet silk: “Anne Mon Marret & Beaugrand / VEVER / Rue de la Paix, 19, / PARIS”. The name Vever is primarily associated with Henri Vever (1854–1942) in jewellery history. His three-volume “Bijouterie française au XIXe siècle” remains the definitive work on 19th-century French jewellery. However, it was Henri’s father, Jean-Jacques Ernest, who gave the Maison Vever its name. In 1870, he relocated his family, including his then 16-year-old son Henri, from Metz to Paris, where he took over the long-established and renowned jewellery house Marret & Beaugrand at 19 Rue de la Paix. As the name Vever was still new in Paris at the time, the company initially operated under the combined names of both firms. The case, therefore, cannot have been made before 1870. The necklace, however, is significantly older—its craftsmanship dates to around 1825. Apparently, it was sold as an antique at the House of Vever. Henri Vever, in particular, had a great appreciation for the jewellery of previous generations. The four golden decorative elements of the necklace date from the 1820s. They are crafted from cannetille filigree, which reached the height of its popularity between 1820 and 1830. Finely detailed and intricate, the production of this filigree was both time-consuming and labour-intensive. At the time, however, handcrafting was cheaper than the precious metal gold, so many hours of labour were invested in creating large, opulent designs with relatively little material. At the same time as the rise of cannetille, the proverbial golden age of topaz also began: Imperial topaz was frequently set into delicate filigree. Today, we are mostly familiar with heavily treated blue topazes in jewellery, but in the early 19th century, the gemstone was cherished in its natural shades of gold and pink. These stones were mined in Ouro Preto, Brazil, and brought to Europe via Portugal. The House of Vever had likely already restored the necklace once before selling it. The fine yet heavily worn strands of antique imitation pearls, which originally linked the golden elements, date from this period. We have replaced the imitation pearls with more durable cultured pearls of the same size. Originally, the necklace may also have featured strands of pearls or delicate gold chains. Thus, the necklace is once again beautifully wearable, telling the story of the fascination that historical jewellery has always held—even for past generations.

Schätzpreis:11.890€

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