Victorian locket with "Operculum" in Gold, c. 1880

In the animal kingdom, there are materials whose colors and patterns can easily rival the beauty of gemstones. These include the astonishingly colorful lids with which turban snails such as Turbo petholatus close the opening of their shells. Scientifically, these rounded, domed structures are called opercula (singular operculum), the Latin word for “lid.” In turban snails, they consist of a solid, calcareous substance and display a characteristic pattern on their outer surface reminiscent of glazed porcelain. Their bright green center transitions through orange sections to brownish tones toward the edge. Because of their eye-like appearance, such opercula have long been known as “cat’s eyes.” In the jewelry trade, comparable pieces are also referred to as Shiva’s Eye, a term that refers to a connection with the Hindu god Shiva, which is widespread in India. This pendant, which we discovered for you in England, is a particularly beautiful example of this unusual natural material. Set in a discreet gold setting, the operculum forms the front of the pendant. On the reverse side is a glass-covered medallion compartment that was intended to hold a small portrait or another personal memento. The piece of jewellery was crafted during the Victorian era, around 1880. In the 19th century, unusual natural materials from distant regions were prized for their exotic-looking colours and surfaces. The richly textured operculum has become the focal point of the piece of jewellery, virtually unchanged, and impressively demonstrates how little nature sometimes needs the art of the goldsmith. We have paired this very good-conditioned pendant with a matching gold chain so that it can be worn immediately. Further information on these extraordinary jewellery fashions can be found in Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe’s Jewelry in the Age of Queen Victoria, London: British Museum Press 2010, pp. 225–229.

Schätzpreis:€1,290

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