Victorian Mourning Brooch, Great Britain c. 1845 & Later

Often, the pieces of jewellery we sell are imbued with meaning. Rarely, however, is this meaning as layered as in the brooch presented here, dating from around 1845. This is often conveyed through the materials used and their significance within the history of jewellery. The small, richly curved gold brooch, with fine black-ground enamel, is designed as a locket. On the reverse, there is a small glazed compartment that can be fitted with a lock of hair. On the front, it features a setting of natural pearls. Natural pearls were widely used in the 19th century and carried a variety of meanings. In connection with the social conventions of mourning following the death of a loved one, they were often incorporated into mourning jewellery. This is one such example of a Victorian mourning piece. At the centre of the brooch is an arrangement of small flowers, surrounded by a frame of pearls. These are most likely violets. The violet, somewhat overlooked in German-speaking contexts, possesses a rich symbolism in other languages and cultures. In French, it bears the name “(herbe de la) pensée”, meaning “plant of remembrance”, and is therefore regarded as a symbol of loving memory. The English term “pansy” is derived from this French “pensée”. A similar meaning exists in Italian, where it is called “viola del pensiero”, or “violet of remembrance”. As an adornment for a locket such as this, which would have contained the hair of a loved one, the violet is thus a most fitting choice. Interestingly, the meaning of the central violet has been further enhanced in more recent times. Its petals are composed of various gemstones, transforming the brooch into an “acrostic jewel”, that is, a piece of jewellery with a hidden message. The selection of gemstones, and thus their meaning, can be understood through the initial letters of their names. Specifically, these are two rubies, and one each of emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, and a small rose-cut diamond. The initial letters of these gemstones form the acronym “REGARD”, which here means “esteem” or “affection”. The five coloured stones are not original; they were added to the brooch at a later date to reinforce its meaning as a token of affectionate remembrance. We discovered this piece in the south of England.

Schätzpreis:1.980€

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